Thursday, January 10, 2008
Originally the Bulldog was bred to protect and bait bulls, the purpose of which was both practical (tenderising meat) and profitable (entertainment), both of which will be discussed later. We will begin with the series of events which saw the initiation of the development of this unique genre of breeds.
As far back as 50 AD in the Roman context, a fighting breed known as the Broad Mouthed Dog of Briton is documented. Furthermore, the Roman's are found to have taken a keen interest in these early Briton bulldogs, having selected and exported them from Briton to Rome, purely for entertainments sake, used in the great amphitheatres of this era (4).
In 1066 England began training dogs for baiting bulls, bears, horses and various other species. One can confidently assume that this was the beginning of the development of the British Bulldog, a breed who's anatomy and physiology are so perfectly suited for this arduous task (See Article Number 2). Bull baiting required the Bulldog to engage the bull by creeping upon it's belly toward the bull, while the bull anticipating the dogs advances lowers it's head ready to defend itself by tossing the dog with its horns, however before given the chance the Bulldog leaps and grabs the bull by the nostrils (1). It is believed that bull baiting came about by the realisation of the fact that the lactic acid build up created in exercise carried out by the animal before slaughter, has the effect of tenderising the meat and giving it a satisfying flavour. Therefore it became commonplace for butchers to provide this service, to the point, that fines were issued to those who did not comply. Hence, this started the basis for what was to be a successful breeding program in which over many years of selection for traits conducive toward the effective execution of this task, a breed was born. Breeding animals were selected upon their relative intuition and ease of training, that is, to grab the nose of the bull and no other part, along with the selection of complimentary physical attributes.
In 1406 Edmond de Langley, Duke of York described the features of an "Allen" dog "with a large thick head and short muzzle, which had remarkable coverage and when he attacked an animal he hung on", which was undoubtedly used for bull baiting. Conversely, in 1557 Dr. Caius described a bulldog with features being "vastly huge, stubborn, ugly and eager dog, of a heavy and burdensome body", presumably some form of mastiff (3). Thus we have the basis for the existence of two distinct lines, that of the Mastiff and the Bulldog, but it was during the period 1556-1649 that the physical distinction between the two became more obvious. Furthermore, it wasn't until 1631 that the word "Bulldog" was first mentioned in England and from original oil paintings it has been observed that in 1598 English Bulldogs were still relatively large (90lbs). Similarly, in 1625, Bulldogs were still described as "big dogs, underhung, big skill, well laid back nose". In 1686, a new system of bull baiting was introduced, requiring a dog capable of greater activity, moderately low stature, with a well laid back nose and protruding underjaw. (3) This may have been the driving force behind the creation of a smaller specimen, however other sources claim that, the reduction in size was the result of restrictions placed on public ownership of such huge dogs, both by law and financially. Therefore, members of the public sought to create a smaller, but in no way less tenacious animal, one that they could legally own and afford to maintain comfortably (2). It may have been a mixture of these two influences however at the time this article was written (2006) it appears unclear. Therefore over this 50 year period 1686-1735 a reduction in size from 90 lbs to 50-60 lbs was observed and an increase in tenacity, evidence of what an effective breeding program can achieve over a relatively short period of time (2). In comparison to today's British Bulldogs, the bull baiting animals of 1735 were smaller in skull, longer in face, higher in shoulder, narrower in front, lighter in bone and overall less exaggerated, but most importantly by this time Bulldogs were inheriting the inborn tendency to grab the bull by the nose, rather than the horns so to speak or any other part for that matter! Therefore, these dogs were incredibly powerful, retaining the musculature and compact structure of their predecessors (4).
Thankfully, in 1835 the cruel sport of bull baiting was banned, and strangely enough if it weren't for dog fighting (1690) and the beginning of dog shows (1859), the British Bulldog, may very well have gone extinct (1).
Bulldogs were exported to other countries, seeing the development of different Bulldog types (French, American, Australian etc), which were selectively bred to function in their new climates and roles. The modern British Bulldog appears to be more exaggerated than the dog that existed back in 1735, being stockier, broader and more affectionate, hence less suitable as a fighting breed, and more suited to the family home and show ring.
© Balerow Aussie Bulldogs http://www.aussiebulldogs.net
References:
1. Brearley J.M. (1985) The Book of the Bulldog. TFH Publications.
2. Cooper H.J. (2005) Bulldogs and Bulldog Breeding. Vintage Dog Books.
3. Fleig D. (1996) The History Of Fighting Dogs. TFH Publications.
4. Homan M. (2000) A Complete History Of Fighting Dogs. Howell Books.
5. Thomas C. (2000) Bulldogs Today. Ringpress Books.
How To Stop Your Dog From Pulling On The Leash While Walking
Dogs which pull on their leash while walking with you is a common problem seen among many different breeds. This problem can be seen in puppies as well as adult dogs. Dogs which pull on their leash while you walk this is more than just aggravating. If the leash breaks, the dog could run and put itself or others in danger. You should want to walk your dog, not have it walking you.
There are a number of different reasons why your dog will pull on the leash. Some dogs are so happy to go for a walk that they are out of control, and are anxious to move about. Other dogs see themselves as being the leader, and will move forward with force because they feel that they are moving ahead of the pack. If you r dog is very happy about going out, it may help to give them some time to calm down. You can stand still with the dog for a few minutes until they become more relaxed.
If the dog feels that it is the leader, this is a sign that you should begin training him. The owner has to show the dog that they are the leader. When you don't have this understanding with your dog, it will be impossible to train them properly. If your dog shows signs of control, it is best to go back to simple obedience training. If you don't have the time to train the dog yourself, it may be best to send them to a dog training school.
The instructor can train you as well as your dog, and they can show you how to keep the dog from trying to be the leader. Skilled instructors should always work with both you and your dog. The first step in getting the dog not to pull on the leash is to get it to accept the collar. If the dog is moving around a lot while you are trying to put on the collar, this is a sign that your dog will pull against the leash. Start by commanding your dog to sit or stay while you put on the collar. If the dog gets up after you've put on the collar, make him sit back down quickly.
You should only walk the dog after it sits down calmly and allows you to put on the collar and leash. Once the collar is on, don't allow the dog to jump up and rush ahead towards the door. Gently pull back on the leash. Make him sit back down again, and repeat the process until he gets the message.
Michael Colucci is a technical writer for Free Dog Training , Dog Care and Pet Zine
Keeping a Dog Tick-Free
Dogs and in general all pets tend to spend more of their summer time outdoors. In case of dogs, it is very important to be careful about parasites, bugs and micro organisms that can harm them while they get their whiff of fresh air. Precautions are necessary to keep these dangers away. One of these pests that can cause a lot of nuisance and damage are the ticks dog diseases. Avoiding the ticks is of prime importance than curing at a later stage.
Why Ticks?
Ticks tend to stick to warmer temperatures, CO2 and movement. Ticks do not transmit through the air. Their motion is limited to crawling. They transmit themselves by climbing up taller structures or plants and drop onto any living and moving human or animal. The danger of diseases or kinds of diseases transmitted by ticks depends upon the country and culture, therefore the cure of after effects of ticks and ticks itself varies from country to country. The danger of having ticks on your dogs body begins once the tick bites. The bite itself is painless and unfeeling but the place of bite might get infected in no time. Consulting a veterinarian is advisable for treatment which normally involves oral antibiotics. If your pet dog is diseased due to a tick bite, there is a risk of infection spreading due to your dog salivation on or biting another pet. The most popular disease spread by a tick bite is the lyme disease but not the only one.
How to keep ticks away from your pet dog
The best way to avoid ticks is to avoid walking your dog in the midst of vegetation during tick season. Always keep the vegetation around your house trimmed. Certain preventive medication products are also available. More information can be gathered from your veterinarian about suitability of these to your dog in respect to age and area. Do not use medications without consulting and proper instructions must be followed in using this kind of medication. Please remember that these medications are suited for a single class of pets only, meaning that tick prevention medication for dogs is for dogs only and should not be used on cats or any other pets.
Removing Dog Ticks
When your dog comes back from outdoors make sure to check him carefully for ticks. They are normally found in warm areas, under the arms, in the ears, between the toes and in the folds of the skin. If you find any, remove them safely. Do not touch the tick, use a alcohol swab, then pull it up slowly with tweezers. Make sure not to leave any parts of the tick sticking to your dog. If you are unsuccessful contact your vet.
Article by Dog-and-Cat-Training.com
Visit http://www.dog-and-cat-training.com/dog-healthy/ for more dog healthy articles, over 100 dog and cat tips, and more!
